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When compiling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred venues. Yet, tucked high among these culinary giants is a modest salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has left the family utterly surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” says the family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that led to their modest place earning such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. As the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary honour.